- Destination: Istanbul, Türkiye
- Area we stayed: Fatih / Şehzadebaşı
- Flights: Direct from Oslo
- Airport transfer: Pre-booked
- Cards accepted: Almost everywhere
- Cash needed: Yes, especially for markets
- Would we go back? Absolutely
Istanbul had been in my pocket list for years.
As a Greek who grew up on Rhodes Island, Turkey never felt completely foreign to me. I had visited places like Edirne and Marmaris before, and I had always loved the atmosphere, the food, the markets and the feeling of familiarity between our cultures.
Yet somehow, I had never visited the city where history, cultures and continents meet: Istanbul.We chose Istanbul for my 29th birthday in December.
Most people associate Turkey with summer holidays, beach towns and warm weather, but we visited right in the middle of winter.
Luckily, winters along the Mediterranean coast are usually mild, and December turned out to be a wonderful time to explore the city without the overwhelming crowds.
What surprised me most was how much Istanbul felt like home.
Maybe it was the smell of fresh simit in the morning, maybe the endless glasses of tea, or maybe the fact that Greek words occasionally appeared in unexpected conversations.
Whatever the reason, this trip felt far more familiar than I ever expected.
We spent five full days in Istanbul, which felt like the perfect amount of time for a first visit. Long enough to explore the hidden corners, but short enough to leave us wanting more.
Before the Trip
We booked this trip a few months in advance and, looking back, everything worked surprisingly smoothly.
Our flights were booked through Expedia and honestly we got quite lucky with the schedule.
We arrived early on the first day and departed late on the last one, which basically gave us five full days in the city.
Since we were flying directly from Oslo, the journey felt even easier.
Documents
If you are travelling from Europe, entering Turkey is fairly straightforward.
As Greek citizens, we could technically enter with a Greek identity card, but we always travel with our passports whenever possible.
It simply feels easier and avoids any confusion.
Currency
Turkey uses the Turkish Lira (TRY).
Cards were accepted almost everywhere during our trip, including restaurants, cafés and most shops.
However, I would still recommend carrying some cash.The markets are one of the highlights of Istanbul and many smaller vendors either prefer cash or offer better prices when paying in cash.
If you enjoy browsing local markets as much as I do, having a few lira in your pocket is definitely useful.
E SIM
One thing we never skip when travelling outside the European Union is an eSIM.
Having internet access from the moment we land makes everything easier.
Maps, transportation, restaurant searches, translations and last-minute bookings become much less stressful.
For this trip we used Airalo, just like we did in Costa Rica, and it made everything much easier from the moment we landed.
Airport Transfer
Because we were arriving in the evening and it was our first time visiting Istanbul, we decided to pre-book an airport transfer.
It turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
Our driver was waiting for us when we landed and within a short time we were already heading towards the city instead of trying to figure out transportation after a long travel day.
It took almost an hour to arrive at our hotel.Sometimes convenience is worth every euro.
Where We Stayed
For our five days in Istanbul, we stayed in the Fatih Şehzadebaşı area.
To be honest, I think we got quite lucky with this choice.The area felt local, calm and much less overwhelming than some of the more touristy parts of the city. At the same time, we had a metro station and tram nearby and many of Istanbul’s main attractions were either within walking distance or very easy to reach.
One thing I always look for when booking accommodation is balance. I don’t necessarily need to stay right in the middle of everything if it means noise all night long. Fatih felt like a good compromise between convenience and comfort.
We stayed at the AHC Old City Hotel, and the real highlight was definitely the rooftop.
We actually spent more time there than I expected. Some mornings we would stay longer after breakfast simply enjoying the view, and some evenings we would return just to look at the city lights. There was something incredibly relaxing about seeing Istanbul from above after spending the entire day walking through busy streets and crowded markets.
Breakfast was also one of the highlights of our stay.
Good food always makes me happy, but good food with a view makes me even happier.
As for the room itself, it was simple but clean, comfortable and exactly what we needed for a city trip where we spent most of our time outside exploring.
Would I stay in this area again?
Absolutely.
Especially for a first visit to Istanbul, I think Fatih is a great base that allows you to experience both the historic side of the city and the more modern neighbourhoods without spending your entire day in transportation.
Day 1
We arrived in Istanbul around 5 PM, which in December basically means it was already dark outside.
Our transfer was waiting for us at the airport exit and everything went surprisingly smoothly.
It was raining, but honestly weather rarely affects our trips.
We have travelled through Lisbon in heavy rain before, so a little Istanbul drizzle was definitely not going to stop us.
The first feeling was unexpected.
Istanbul immediately reminded me of home.
Not exactly Greece, but a mix of Athens and the Greek islands. Familiar sounds, familiar smells, familiar food and somehow a familiar atmosphere.
Fatih Şehzadebaşı
The mosque across from our hotel, beautifully lit on a rainy December evening.
The feeling became even stronger when our driver started speaking a few Greek words to us. His great-grandparents were Greek and he still remembered some expressions. It was one of those small moments that stay with you long after the trip is over.
Since it was already late and we were tired from travelling, we decided not to plan anything for our first evening.Instead, we simply walked around the area where we were staying, explored a few streets, bought some essentials, found something to eat and got our first impression of the city.
One of my favourite things when arriving somewhere new is exactly this first walk. No attractions, no plans, no itinerary. Just observing everyday life and getting a feeling for the place.
That first evening confirmed something I would keep feeling throughout the entire trip:
Istanbul felt far more familiar than I expected.
Day 2
Our first full day in Istanbul was dedicated mostly to wandering around Beyoğlu and the Galata area.
Honestly, one of my favourite things when travelling is simply walking without a strict plan and letting the city guide me.We started around Şahkulu and slowly made our way through the small streets around Galata.
Every corner seemed to have either a coffee shop, a bakery or a cat sleeping peacefully somewhere. Istanbul has a way of making you stop every few minutes just to look around.
We continued through Kocatepe, Hacımimi and Kılıçali Paşa before eventually reaching Galataport.
The Bosphorus views never get old.
No matter how many times you walk next to the water, you somehow end up stopping again. From there we continued towards Salıpazarı and Haliç before crossing back towards the historic side of the city. We ended the day around Rüstem Paşa and the Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı).
If you like markets, colours, spices and complete sensory overload, you will absolutely love this place. The smell of spices follows you everywhere and somehow you always leave carrying something you never intended to buy.
Galata area
One of the charming streets we discovered around Beyoğlu .
Beyoğlu area
A typical street in Beyoğlu full of character and everyday local life.
Day 3
This was probably our most touristy day. We started around Balabanağa and slowly made our way towards the Grand Bazaar.
Even if you don’t plan on buying anything, visiting the Grand Bazaar is an experience by itself. It feels more like a small city than a market.
After that we visited Hagia Sophia.
What a magnificent monument.
As a Greek, visiting Hagia Sophia was one of the moments I had been looking forward to the most.
I got goosebumps the moment I saw it. No matter where you come from, it is impossible to stand there and not feel the weight of its history. It is one of those places that every traveller should see at least once.Just across from it is the Blue Mosque, another place that is absolutely worth visiting.
The whole Sultanahmet area feels like an open-air museum where every building has a story.
Later in the afternoon we crossed over to Üsküdar. Looking back at the European side from the water was one of my favourite views of the entire trip.
For the first time you really understand how enormous Istanbul actually is.
Grand Bazar
The oldest and most fascinating market in the world.
Hayia Sophia
One of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks.
Day 4
My birthday Day.
I always try to spend my birthday travelling somewhere and this year Istanbul was the lucky destination.
We started our day around Sultanahmet Park and walked towards Sarayburnu.
We continued through Hobyar and Çemberlitaş before heading to one of the highlights of the entire trip:
We chose Historical Gedik Pasa Hammam and honestly I would return to Istanbul just for that experience alone.
I had heard about Turkish hammams before but I didn’t expect to enjoy it this much.After days of walking around the city, it felt like pressing a reset button.
Relaxing, warm and completely different from anything I had experienced before.In the evening we returned to the hotel, had nargile on the rooftop and enjoyed the city lights.
Looking over Istanbul at night on my birthday is one of those travel memories that will probably stay with me forever.
Gedik Pasa Hammam
I would happily fly back to Istanbul just for this hammam experience.
Fatih Şehzadebaşı
Birthday views from our hotel rooftop in Fatih.
Day 5
Our last day was intentionally slow.
No rushing between attractions.
No plans.
Just walking around, buying a few last souvenirs, drinking salep and trying to convince ourselves that we still had more time left.I always think the last day of a trip says a lot about a place.
I had exactly the same feeling when we left Tromsø after our winter trip earlier that year.
If you spend your last hours looking for excuses to stay one more day, you know you found somewhere special.
Istanbul was definitely one of those places.
Maiden’s Tower- Kız Kulesi
The Maiden’s Tower, quietly standing between Europe and Asia.
Bosphorus
An evening stroll along the Bosphorus, watching Istanbul slow down for the night.
Things We Loved
The Salep
I don’t know what they put in it, but I became slightly obsessed with salep.
On cold December afternoons, there was nothing better than holding a warm cup of thick salep while walking through the streets of Istanbul.
It became one of those things that immediately takes me back to the trip whenever I think about it.
The Hammam
We absolutely loved the hammam.
Actually, “loved” is probably an understatement.
If someone offered me a flight to Istanbul tomorrow just to visit a hammam and fly back home, I would take it.
It was one of the most relaxing experiences of the trip and something I would recommend to absolutely everyone visiting Istanbul.
The Desserts
Turkey and desserts are a dangerous combination.
Baklava, künefe, San Sebastian cheesecake, Turkish delight, chocolate desserts, pistachio everything…
I don’t think there was a single day when we didn’t end up ordering something sweet.I genuinely think I ate more desserts in five days than I normally eat in a month.
And I regret absolutely nothing.
The Bosphorus
The Bosphorus was probably my favourite part of Istanbul.
Not a specific attraction.
Not a monument.
Just the Bosphorus itself.
There is something about sitting by the water, watching ferries go back and forth between Europe and Asia, that makes you completely lose track of time.We did that a lot.
Hagia Sophia
What a magnificent monument.
As a Greek, visiting Hagia Sophia was one of the moments I had been looking forward to the most.
I got goosebumps the moment I saw it.
No matter where you come from, it is impossible to stand there and not feel the weight of its history. It is one of those places that every traveller should see at least once.
I recommend you to prebook a ticket and skip the lines.
Things That Surprised Us
The Food
This might be controversial.
As a Greek person, I expected to absolutely love every single meal in Istanbul.
The reality was a bit different.
The desserts? Incredible.
The food? Not always.
We found some really good restaurants, but overall I wasn’t as impressed as I expected to be. Maybe I am spoiled because Greek and Turkish cuisine share so many similarities and I already had very high expectations.
I think part of it was the sheep butter that is used in many dishes and desserts.Sometimes it worked perfectly, sometimes it simply wasn’t for me.
The Prices
I was honestly surprised by how expensive Istanbul felt.
Maybe because so many people talk about Turkey as a cheap destination.
In the tourist areas prices were often similar to what we would pay in many European cities.
Markets, street vendors and souvenir shops were definitely not as cheap as I expected either.
My biggest advice?
Learn the art of bargaining.
A little pazari can make a huge difference.
What 5 days in Istanbul Actually Felt Like
To be honest, before visiting I expected chaos.
Traffic.
Crowds.
Noise.
And yes, all of those things exist. But what I didn’t expect was how many quiet moments we would find in between.
Afternoons by the Bosphorus.
Watching fishermen on the bridges.
Getting lost in markets.
Listening to the call to prayer echo across the city.
Istanbul somehow manages to be both overwhelming and relaxing at the same time.
What also surprised me was how welcomed I felt as a Greek. Many people immediately recognised where we were from and called us “Yunan.”
Not once did I feel uncomfortable.Not once did I feel unwelcome. Actually, quite the opposite.
People were friendly, curious and often happy to chat.
It made the city feel even more familiar.
Would We Visit Istanbul Again?
Without hesitation.
In fact, I think one of my biggest regrets from this trip is that we didn’t spend enough time on the Asian side.
Five days were enough to see a lot, but definitely not enough to understand Istanbul completely.
Next time I would spend less time visiting attractions and more time simply experiencing daily life.
More neighbourhoods.
More ferries.
More tea by the Bosphorus.
More desserts. Definitely more desserts.
Istanbul was one of those places that felt familiar from the very beginning and somehow managed to exceed my expectations anyway.
And that is probably the best compliment I can give a city.